Diana Duarte

MOST TOURISTS WHO VISIT ANGUILLA come for the sand, the seafood and the serenity The tiny island, a peaceful Crown Colony of the West Indies, is home to some of the finest beaches in the Caribbean -- at least 5 out of the top 10, according to locals.

But on our visit, the most entertaining time was spent on horseback. Renting a pair of gentle, speckled mares from an English stable on the island's west end, we rode along the edges of cliff-like bluffs, and down into the ocean froth of Sandy Ground Bay, home to the island's annual sailing regatta.

Just six miles to the north of St.Martin, Anguilla is a still-unspoiled island that takes its name from the Spanish word for "eel" -- named for its elongated shape by Spanish explorers. The waters surrounding Anguilla (pronounced An-Gwee-La) are as variegated as its shoreline, clear and calm on the southern Caribbean coast and rough and roiling on the northern Atlantic side.

Despite the torrent of tourists who visit the Caribbean each year, Anguilla remains relatively untouched. There are not a lot of natural diversions on the flat island, just scores of hidden coves, each laced with powdery sand. An ideal place to retreat from the world.

On the southwestern tip lies secluded Shoal Bay West, one of the lovelier stretches of beach, and home to the exclusive Altamer Resort. To reach Altamer, you must drive down a narrow mile-long road, passing the West End salt pond (salt production at one time was the main source of revenue and employment for Anguilla). The dramatic structure -- a snow white, geometric-style villa -- is nestled among two other complexes on the remote beach. The upscale resort boasts a four-story main villa with floor to ceiling glass windows, and stunning views of the Caribbean Sea and St. Martin.

While Anguilla is a relatively simple place -- the highest form of cultural expression seems to be the island's colorful postage stamps -- Atlamer is an oasis of luxury. The five-bedroom, six-bath villa includes a professional gourmet kitchen (replete with a Paris-trained chef) and a formal dining room that comfortably seats twelve. A butler is on call 24 hours a day.

The most spectacular space in the villa is the third-floor grand master bedroom, which has cathedral ceilings, a breakfast and sitting area, and a large balcony overlooking the pool and beach. The master bathroom has a marble Jacuzzi for two with sky lights above, a separate walk-in shower and double sinks. Adding function to its comfortable form, the master bedroom sports a loft-like curved balcony complete with a computer, printer, fax machine and private bar. (The second-floor guest rooms can also be set up with an office if need be.)

For guests who want to have some fun indoors (or for those with children), there is a game room on the second floor with a custom-built pool table, a big-screen flat television with DVD, an assortment of movies and CDs, and a wet bar.

For those who prefer the outdoors, there is kayaking, fishing, tennis, island tours by boat or land, snorkeling and, of course, horseback riding. Adventurous visitors can join guides to go lobster fishing. For the more laid back, a massage can be arranged, even on the roof-top terrace. That may not seem like a typical Caribbean experience, but little about this unique hideaway is typical.

Altamer Resort. Shoal Bay West, Anguilla -- British West Indies. 1-888-652-6888. Daily rates range from US$2,250 to US$5,000 during holidays, excluding tax and tariff Sleeps up to 10 people.

COPYRIGHT 2001 Americas Publishing Group

COPYRIGHT 2003 Gale Group